Travel Eye on Luxor (Egypt)

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Overview:

Luxor was built on the site of the ancient city of Thebes, and the magnificent monumental architecture and its excellent condition make Luxor one of Egypt's greatest tourist destinations. For many hundreds of years people have been visiting the temples of Luxor, Karnak, Hetsgepsut and Ramses II. The Nile has feluccas and old barges that shuffle between the luxury hotel ships of the Hilton and Sheraton that cruise between Cairo and Aswan.

This area is suited for Egyptologists and those interested in ancient history, monuments and cultures, Luxor is a "must". It is also a winter resort with genuine sunbathing weather, the wondrous temples and tombs an added bonus. The extremely hot summer months constitute low season.

The accommodation here consists of hotels outside the centre which are quieter with more relaxing settings, those nearer the centre are more convenient for sightseeing without transport. Standards are not as high as elsewhere, so a 4-star is probably the lowest category acceptable to most tourists. 3-star hotels used by tour operators will usually provide clean, very simple accommodation with little charm and few facilities. The majority of hotels have security guards and electronic alarm gates at the entrance.

In all, the Luxor experience is a typically Egyptian combination of awe-inspiring sights, genteel, old-world hospitality and bustling, colourful, often run-down commercial areas. The constant hard-sell techniques of vendors and the indefatigable offers of tourist services, taxi, caleche, felucca trips and general guiding services can be wearing but the general feeling is one of welcome and street crime is not evident, especially since security was dramatically increased after the massacre of tourists visiting the Temple of Hatshepsut in 1997. .

There is the possibility of terrorist attacks on tourists in Egypt, Foreign Office advisory notices offer the latest official advice and should be consulted before booking.

Locality:

Luxor is situated in east-central Egypt, which is 310 mls as the crow flies, but 416 mls by road south of Cairo. The area is 125 mls N of Aswan, 170 mls SW of Hurghada and 4 mls NW of Luxor airport. It is set on the east bank of the River Nile in completely flat terrain. There are Splendid views across the river to a cultivated flood plain on the west bank and the impressive bare hills of ancient Thebes beyond, where the tombs and mortuary temples of the pharaohs are located.

Entertainment/Facilities/Attractions/Things to do

There are no beaches in Luxor and it is unadviseable to take a swim in the Nile, usually caleche drivers and their nags bathe in the Nile.

Shopping is limited to scruffy souk and bazaar-type shopping streets open till late at night in the old town. Near the promenade is a "tourist bazaar" where the shopping experience is less intimidating and bartering is not as severe as in the souk. Many larger hotels also have small shopping arcades either on site or attached, where shopping is civilised but prices are by no means fixed.

During the daytime the main activities include, city sightseeing taking in:

Luxor Temple (city center) - Statues of Ramses, Colonnade, Temple of Tuthmoses, Amenhotep's courtyard and more.

Karnak Temple (city centre) - Hatshepsut's obelisk, sacred lake, Hypostyle Hall, Temple of Amun and much more. Sound and Light Show.

Theban Necropolis (across the Nile to the west bank) - Valley of the Kings and Queens, Collossi, Temples of Medinet Habu, and Deir el Bahri, Ramessuem, Seti Temple, Deir el Medina (workers village) and others.

Dendara Temple -  Built during the Ptolemaic (Greek rule) period which included Cleopatra's reign. It still has its roof intact. It can be reached by private taxi, but most people opt for a day long cruise up the River Nile to Qena and then a 8km trip by coach to the temple. Beware - it is a very long day and although most people start off basking on the sundeck by mid afternoon everyone is looking for that elusive shade. Take plenty of sun protection and a hat.

Other activiies include taking a trip on the felucca (traditional sailing boats) on the Nile, hot-air balloon trips. There is also an 18-hole golf course.

The nightlife in Luxor consists of Hotel Novotel Coralia's disco on a boat, themed dining, and a sound-and-light show at Karnak Temple.

The restaurants are mainly hotel based with a good range of table d'hote, a la carte, light meals and pizzerias. There are some Chinese, Italian, themed meals, and buffets restaurants in the area. A few good-quality local restaurants, the brave can go ethnic in the cheap restaurants around the railway station.