Travel Eye on Engelberg (Switzerland)

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Overview:

Engelberg is a traditional Alpine village, only marginally spoilt by recent developments. It sits in remove from the big resorts and doesn't attract many foreign visitors, in spite of being only 100km from Zurich.

Engelberg offers 82km of marked pistes and possesses one of the biggest vertical descents in the world at 2000m. This is due to its central mountain, Titlis, being one of the highest in central Switzerland (over 3000m). The skiing is somewhat fragmented, existing in 2 parts, while beginners don't really have much to play with. On piste, it is mostly intermediate, but advanced skiers are spoilt with fantastic off-piste. In particular the 'Laub' fulfils these requirements, plunging 1000m off Titlis. The snow is excellent, especially at the top, with some drags left open until June. The village itself is at 1050m, so resort snow can vary.

Engelberg's biggest disadvantage is its isolation, offering no links to any other resorts. It can also experience weekend queues. Off-snow there are plenty of good hotels, restaurants and non-skiing activities to amuse everyone. The nightlife, whilst limited, is great fun, culminating in weekend revelry.

Overall, if you are looking for some challenging skiing and an essentially Swiss skiing environment, Engelberg is a fine choice. Off the beaten track, but with some great attractions.

Locality:

Engelberg is situated in central Switzerland (20 mls S of Lucerne and its lake, 50 mls NE of Interlaken, 100 mls SE of Berne, 75 mls S of Zurich airport). It is positioned at the top of a dead-end valley, with opposing N- and S-facing slopes far enough back to allow in ample sunshine on clear days; heavily wooded lower elevations.

Entertainment/Facilities/Attractions/Things to do:

Engelberg is best suited for intermediate skiers who will enjoy the numerous red runs and one very steep black run on the Titlis. Popular with older Germans and Dutch, as well as younger locals. Range of activities for nonskiers. A popular walking base in summer.

Accommodation is generally 3-star, with a few 4-star family-run properties, many featuring fine turn-of-the-century buildings. Increasing numbers of concrete self-catering apartments and traditional-style chalets can be found on the outskirts. The bulk of accommodation is concentrated along the main street with a couple in elevated positions above the pedestrianised zone on the N side of the village.

Shopping here consists of generally pricey boutiques, sportswear outlets and jewellers; a couple of supermarkets.

Activities on offer are: a range of winter activities including snowboarding (snow park with half pipe), ice-skating, sleigh rides, tobogganing, snow-shoeing and 24 mls of winter walking trails; 2 indoor sports centres offering tennis, curling and indoor/outdoor pools; paragliding; small village museum. In summer, hiking and mountaineering; ride up Titlis on Rotair revolving cable car. Nightlife is fairly informal, unsophisticated and low key, centred in the major hotels; a few apres-ski bar/restaurants; small casino offering live entertainment and dancing; night-time skiing, tobogganing and snowboarding.

There are a wide choice of hotel restaurants and cafes offering traditional fondues and raclette as well as international fare.

Getting around is fairly easy with six regular ski-bus routes (all free) including ¼-hourly service between Titlis ski-station and the village, stopping off at points in between; in summer, this drops to 1 bus route running between Titlis and Furenalp via the village. Regular trains to Lucerne (1 hr).

Lucerne's historic sights and shopping are recommended for an excursion.