Travel Eye on Capri (Italy)

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Overview

Measuring 4 miles east to west and 1½ mls north to south with a population of 13,000, mostly concentrated in the 2 main centres: Capri Town on the E side of the island and Anacapri, 2½ mls to the W. Capri Town is perched above the island's harbour, on a rugged hillside in the saddle of 2 mountains, with superb panoramic views.

It's an arduous uphill hike from the harbour into the centre but there are alternatives: a short bus or taxi ride or the funicular. The town centre is a diminutive church square bursting with day-trippers and cafes frequented by the idle rich and their hangers-on. Alleys, steps and narrow, cobbled, pedestrianised streets radiate out from here and are lined with expensive boutiques, art galleries, jewellery shops, artisans, souvenir shops, little bars and cafes, restaurants and ice-cream parlours. Sometimes carefree strolling is interrupted by the passage of small, silent electric vehicles carrying building materials, luggage, general produce etc.

The other major town, Anacapri, is less exhibitionist and commercial except for a small mall offering the world's designer labels. The countryside outside these 2 towns comprises wooded, rugged limestone hillsides, laced with narrow, serpentine roads and sprinkled with simple white dwellings looking more Greek than Italian. The wealthy and famous who have contributed to Capri's renown live in luxurious villas with opulent gardens discreetly tucked away from the casual visitor's gaze.

Locality

Capri is on the edge of the Tyrrhenian Sea, guarding the south entrance to the Bay of Naples, about a third of the way up the boot of Italy. (it is 3 mls off the mainland coast. 147 mls SE of Rome. 7 mls SW of Sorrento. 16 mls SE of the island of Ischia. 17 mls S of Naples and its airport). It is on a rugged coastline of plunging cliffs, inlets and grottoes with a mountainous interior; the temperate climate encourages exuberant, colourful, exotic vegetation.

Entertainment/Activities/Things To Do:

Capri is popular honeymooners, romantics, upmarket designer shoppers, hedonists, mature old money, jet-setters and artists appreciating antiquity and nature. Hordes of day-trippers and young backpackers from the mainland regularly invade the island and enjoy it as much as anyone.

Accommodation consists of upmarket and charming properties with stylish atmospheres. The island boasts four 5-star hotels and more than a dozen 4-star. Many are converted town houses and villas perched on the hillsides in and around the rather claustrophobic town centre. 1 or 2 at Anacapri. All properties employ porters to transport luggage directly from the quayside.

It is not renowned for its beaches, the nearest one to Capri Town is a disappointing, narrow stretch of rough grey pebbles and stones just west of the harbour. Better options are found at Marina Grande, Marina Piccola and Faro Punta Carena on the south west corner of the island, which offer sunbeds, parasols and simple bars. There are numerous quiet rocky coves are dotted around the coast, many only accessible by boat.

For shopping there is an extraordinary concentration of international designer boutiques, shops and fine jewellers offering the ultimate in fashionable clothing, shoes, watches, gold bracelets, diamonds and high-tech electronic goods. This is a rich person's playground reliant on its seasonal income, so do not expect any bargains or meaningful local souvenirs.

Daytimes can be spent taking part in water sports including scuba diving, windsurfing, snorkelling and sailing. Also shopping and people-watching are popular. Time can be spent exploring the island, from Capri Town, the Giardini di Augusto, Villa Jovis and Tiberius' Leap (1 hr on foot), 14th-century monastery of S Giocomo (cloisters, garden and collection of paintings).

The nightlife here offers a handful of small and exclusive basement clubs and music bars compete with a plethora of stylish little pavement cafes and bistros, discos and cinemas in both Capri Town and Anacapri.

There is a fine choice of sophisticated restaurants, bistros and informal cafes serving everything from Chateaubriand to pizza. Local specialities: fish, seafood and tomatoes with mozzarella. The local wines are highly drinkable.