Travel Eye on Bardonecchia (Italy)

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Overview:

Bardonecchia is one of the 3 original villages in Italy (together with Claviere and Sauze d'Oulx) where modern skiing was invented and first taught at the end of the 19th century by the Swiss engineer Adolfo Kind and the Smith brothers (after whom the resort's main lift is named). Bardonecchia is a large town, based around the station. It offers good value eateries and accommodation, lovely scenery and friendly locals. It's a short transfer from Turin (90 minutes) but that can mean considerable weekend crowds. The resort takes on two personalities - deserted in the week, overrun at the weekend. This is particularly true of the après-ski/nightlife.

The skiing itself is quite substantial, with 140km of pistes. These are shared between three areas, two of which are lift-linked. You'll need a bus to get to all of the lifts. Most of the slopes are geared towards intermediates. Beginners' pistes are quite tough and families with little kids might not find it the most suitable base. The snow can be rather unreliable, as can the lifts, which are quite antiquated. If you are in Bardonecchia during the week, you should find it a very accessible intermediate ski experience.

Locality:

Bardonechia is located in NW Italy, on the extreme W edge of its Piemonte region, in Torino province. It is positioned at the top of the Susa Valley, where both motorway and railway enter their respective Frejus tunnels into France. Bardonechia is 8 mls from nearest town of Oulx, 54 mls W of Turin, 138 mls SW of Milan airports. It is set on gently sloping terrain at the bottom of a wide, high valley where 3 small rivers join up to form the Torrente Bardonecchia. Mountains on all sides are far enough away to give a more open feel than in many alpine resorts.

Entertainment/Facilities/Attractions/Things to do:

The mopst popular activity in this area is its skiing. The area has a good snow record, with the season running from mid-Dec to mid-April; snow cannons on the main Campo Smith runs as necessary. Bardonecchia has 16 beginner's runs, 12 intermediate and 3 advanced with well-groomed pistes. The area is suited to all levels of skier, with both good nursery slopes and long, difficult black runs on the Jafferau area. Much favoured by the British as well as Italians and French. Lack of raucous nightlife makes it more attractive to families and couples than singles. In terms of accommodation there are around 25 hotels, many of which are only 1-star (and not used by tour operators), up to the resort's only 4-star. Though many are family run, they have the feel, decor and professionalism of town hotels rather than the rustic, folksy accommodation found in many other village resorts. Self catering is also available and there are a number of privately owned holiday rental properties in the area. Some hotels are run on a club basis with full entertainment programme. Others are completely run by UK tour operators with British staff.

Besides downhill skiing, there's cross-country skiing, tobogganing, ice-skating, indoor tennis, bowls and swimming pool (with gym and sauna), skateboarding track, museum. By night there are no discos but plenty of bars, including a beer hall and wine bar; hotels provide entertainment, several offering live music; cinema, if your Italian is good; amusement arcade; pool rooms.