ALASKA (USA)

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The largest state in the USA, Alaska is a sparsely populated land of immense natural beauty. At one-fifth the size of the lower 48 States, Alaska has 3 million lakes, over 3000 rivers, 17 of the USA's 20 highest peaks, 100,000 glaciers and 15 national parks , preserves and monuments. Alaska named from an Athabascan word meaning "great land of the west" is as accurate a phrase describing this vast state. Few who see this land of gargantuan ice fields, sweeping tundra, glacially excavated valleys, lush rainforests, deep fjords and occasionally smoking volcanoes leave unimpressed. Wildlife may be under threat elsewhere, but here it is abundant, with Kodiak bears standing twelve feet tall, moose stopping traffic in downtown Anchorage, wolves prowling through national parks, bald eagles circling over the trees, and rivers solid with huge healthy Salmon.

Its sense of undiscovered wilderness and promise of adventure is still as strong today as it was in the past, and having attracted thousands of pioneers in search of gold, fur, fishing, logging and oil, this 'Last Frontier' today lures travellers in search of an unspoilt beauty and close encounters with nature.

The southeast epitomises classic Alaskan scenery, with its fjords, mountains, forests and glaciers. Alaska is one of the top cruise destinations in the world and the main draw-card for visitors to this region is the lack of roads between towns and scenic wonders that make the waters of the Inside Passage a major marine highway ideal for ship travel. The number one attraction in the interior heartland is Denali National Park, an area of untamed magnificence that also encompasses North America's highest mountain, the snow-covered Mt McKinley.

Despite a reputation for high prices and inhospitable winters, millions of people have discovered a piece of America that is worth every dollar. Nowhere else can that frontier feeling be truly experienced, a place where wilderness surrounds every part of the Alaskan way of life.

A mere 600,000 people live in this huge state - over forty percent of them in Anchorage - of whom only one-fifth were born here: as a rule of thumb, the more winters you have endured, the more Alaskan you are. Often referred to as the " Last Frontier ," Alaska in many ways mirrors the American West of the nineteenth century: an endless, undeveloped space in which to stake one's claim and set up a life without interference. Or at least that's how Alaskans would like it to be. Throughout this century tens of thousands have been lured by the promise of wealth, first by gold and then by fishing, logging and, most recently, oil. However, Alaska's 86,000 Native peoples , who don't have the option of returning to the Lower 48 if things don't work out, have been greatly marginalized, though Native corporations set up as a result of pre-oil boom land deals have increasing economic clout.

Traveling around Alaska still demands a spirit of adventure, and to make the most of the state you need to have an enthusiasm for striking out on your own and roughing it a bit. Binoculars are an absolute must, as is bug spray; the mosquito is referred to as the "Alaska state bird" and it takes industrial-strength repellent to keep it away. While winter temperatures of -40°F are commonplace in Fairbanks, the most touristed areas - the southeast and the Kenai Peninsula - enjoy a maritime climate (45-65°F in summer) similar to that of the Pacific Northwest, meaning much more rain (in some towns 180-plus inches per year) than snow. Remarkably, the summer temperature in the Interior often reaches 80°F.

Alaska is far more expensive than most other states: apart from two dozen hostels there's little budget accommodation, and eating and drinking will set you back at least twenty percent more than in the Lower 48 (perhaps fifty percent in more remote regions). Still, experiencing Alaska on a low budget is possible, though it requires planning and off-peak travel. From June to August room prices are crazy; May and September, when tariffs are relaxed and the weather only slightly chillier, are just as good times to go, and in April or October you'll have the place to yourself, albeit with a smaller range of places to stay and eat. Ground transportation , despite the long distances, is reasonable, with backpacker shuttles ferrying budget travelers between major centers. Winter , when hotels drop their prices by as much as half, is becoming an increasingly popular time to visit, particularly for the dazzling aurora borealis.

ALASKA ATTRACTIONS

Aurora Borealis
Winter visitors to Alaska see the skies ablaze with the shimmering veils of the Northern Lights.

Sitka
Russian influence blended with Native heritage and fabulous coastal scenery make this one of Alaska's most diverting towns.

The Chilkoot Trail
Follow in the (frozen) footsteps of the Klondike prospectors on this demanding 33-mile trail near Skagway.

Talkeetna
Every Alaska visitor's favorite small town is the base for superb flightseeing trips around Mount McKinley.

Denali National Park
Alaska's finest park offers superb mountain scenery and incomparable wildlife spotting around the highest peak in North America.

Anchorage Bars
Anchorage is an exceptionally atmospheric place to drink: while the city itself is relatively cosmopolitan, many of its bars, such as sawdust-on-the-floor Chilkoot Charlie's, are characterized by a wild-frontier-saloon feel.

Dalton Highway
This lonely and grueling 500-mile road leads north from Fairbanks to the Arctic Ocean.

Salmon
Join the anglers who line up elbow-to-elbow in the salmon-bearing rivers of the Kenai Peninsula, "Anchorage's Playground," where the savory species can weigh as much as 30 pounds or more.

Juneau
Born as a roughneck mining town in 1880, Juneau is surprisingly urbane. The city is also close to breathtaking glacier vistas and choice whale-watching spots.

Wrangell-St Elias National Park
Solitude-seekers should head for the pristine glaciers and fjords of remote Wrangell-St Elias National Park to watch bears, caribou and other wildlife.