Travel Eye on Aiguablava (Costa Brava, Spain)

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Overview:

Aiguablava is for many people the Costa Brava's most perfect spot, where the cliffs reach down into a turquoise bay backed by a beach of gently shelving sand. It was here in 1908 that Ferran Agullo first coined the term Costa Brava. Although Aiguablava (its name means 'blue water' in Catalan) has been 'discovered' and villas are creeping up the hillsides, this remains a good place to experience the Costa Brava as it was before mass tourism took over in the more southern resorts. Aiguablava consists of 3 rather indistinct areas connected by narrow, winding roads, with Aiguablava Beach to the SW and Fonda Beach to the NE. Midway between sits Fornells (measuring 600 yds wide and extending for around ½ ml up the hillside) which comprises some jumbled, local-style buildings, 2 hotels, a supermarket, minuscule marina and tiny beach. The hills all around are dotted with exclusive private villas, many of which are second homes with pools, so there is a very low-key, quiet atmosphere. As there is nothing in the way of entertainment, a car is a necessity.

Locality:

Located in NE Spain in the province of Catalonia, on the Mediterranean coast, towards the middle of the Costa Brava. 33 mls E of Gerona; 36 mls E of Gerona's airport. 91 mls NE of Barcelona; 100 mls NE of Barcelona's airport. Aiguablava is picturesquely set in an inlet on a dramatic rocky coastline, backed by steep, pine-clad hills and flanked by a rocky, pine-covered headland. Roads lead to Tamariu and Begur.

Entertainment/Facilities/Attractions/Things to do:

The area is most popular with mature, independent, mainly middle- and upmarket travellers of all nationalities. Spanish locals and villa owners. Too restrictive for families and teenagers would eventually struggle with boredom. Those with walking difficulties may find the hills and steps too much of a challenge. Accomodation is limited to 3 middlemarket hotels and one 2-star hostal. Otherwise, private villas and apartments. The beach at Aiguablava is a short, wide strip of fine, pale sand sloping down to turquoise waters that are safe for swimming but rocky at the sides; pine-covered hills to rear. The best equipped of the area's beaches, it has pedalloes and sunbeds for hire and 3 restaurants, but high parking charges. Reached by steep steps, tiny Fornells Beach is more of a pebbly cove, with no facilities and rocks everywhere. 250-yd Fonda Beach, backed by pine cliffs and with rocky promontories at either side, is a wide, black, pebbly strip accessed by steep steps and popular with Spanish families, as it is tucked away. Signs to the beach are few and far between, so ask. No facilities except a bar. Entertainment here is fairly limited and generally consists of coastal walks, beach, diving excursions. By night, entertainment is confined to hotels, there are no disco's/bars/cinema's in the area. Local excursions consist of: Picturesque medieval village of Pals (by car). Visit to Begur, a hilltop town with remains of a medieval castle (by bus). Gerona (by car). Trips to nearby small beach resorts of Tamariu, Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell (by car). Botanical Gardens and Castle of Cap Roig in Calella. Farther afield, Barcelona.